Hatching Chicks With A Broody Hen

You’d presume it would be a natural instinct for a hen to want to hatch her own chicks, but that’s definitely not always the case. At Higher Oak farm, because we breed rare breed hens, it’s really hard to get them to hatch and rear their own chicks. We’ve only been successful with 1 Araucana hen that’s naturally hatched and raised her own chicks. Having said that, we still hatch and rear hundreds of chicks by using special brooding hens. We use Silkie hens, as we’ve found these guys live for hatching their own chicks. We collect and choose which breed we want to hatch more of and swap the eggs from underneath a broody hen with the eggs we want to hatch (We do this at night to help keep the hen calm).

We try and utilise broody hens as often as we can. There are so many benefits to having the chicks being brought up by another hen. It takes away the issues of using incubators as the hen does everything naturally. The chicks will grow up understanding their environment a lot more as they’ve learnt everything from the mother hen. They are more wary of people to begin with, but soon understand that you’re the one that will feed them and they become a lot more friendly!

Common broody hen breeds

Some of the most common broody breeds are Cochins, Orpingtons, Brahmas, Silkies, Sussexes, and Marans. There are other common heritage breeds that will go broody (Cornish, Barred Rocks, Wyandottes, and Turkens, to name a few), but you may have more trouble keeping them on the nest. If you want to hatch eggs without an incubator, don’t take your chances on regular breeds. Instead, get broody breeds!

Signs of a good brooder

You may notice that the same hen has been sitting on the nest for quite a while. You might think, “she’s broody!” But that isn’t always the case. In fact, it’s often not the case. Sometimes hens just get tired and lay in the box to rest. Others abandon the nest after 24-hours. Here’s some signs of a good broody.

• She’s a permanent sitter - She sits on the nest all day and all night when you leave eggs in the nest. She’ll not get up to roost in the evening with the other chickens. She’ll sit on the nest longer than 24-hours, and she’ll return to the nest quickly after getting a drink and bite to eat.

• She screams at you - Broody hens can be vicious things, and rightfully so. They have the ultimate prize to protect! If you try to remove her from the nest, she’ll puff up and make a shrill noise while resisting all your efforts.

• Broody poop - If you’ve had a hen that’s been sitting on the nest all day, she’s been retaining her poop. When she finally gets off the nest, her manure will be larger than normal and stink. Don’t worry, you’ll know the difference when you smell it and see it

• She lays fairly flat - While laying hens will sit in the nesting box, brooders tend to lay flat, making sure they cover all of the eggs.

We always take the broody hen out from the flock and into a separate pen where she can brood in peace. We tried to let the hen brood and hatch in the run but unfortunately the other hens and cockerel did not take it well and killed the chicks. It’s safe to say, we'll never be doing that again! If you don’t have another separate coop you can use any of the below:

-An old doghouse as long as there is an enclosed area where the hen can go outside safely.

-An enclosed pet carrier or dog crate

-Rabbit Hutch

-Small portable chicken coop with run.

Hatching the eggs

1. Bedding - Make sure she has plenty of fresh straw in her nesting area, deep enough to protect the eggs from hard surfaces.

2. Food and Water - Give the hen plenty of food and water. Place the food and water near her nesting spot to encourage her to get up once or twice a day.

3. Make sure she gets back on the nest - If she gets off the nest for long enough for the eggs to start getting cold, just coax her back into the nest using treats or pop her back on the nest.

4. Hatching- It takes about 3 weeks for eggs to hatch. Make a note of the day she goes broody, about half way through you might want to look at candling the eggs to take out any that aren’t viable. Once the chicks start to pip (crack the shell) keep an eye on them. Most of them should hatch on their own but you’ll want to be on hand to help if there’s any hiccups.

Congratulations on your new arrivals!

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Incubator Vs Broody Hen

As we are entering the brooding/Hatching season, we wanted to post about the pro’s and con’s of hatching chicks with an incubator and hatching with a broody hen.

Pro’s to hatching chicks with broody hens

The really great thing about hens is that they go broody and then can hatch and look after their own chicks. Hens are completely self-sufficient with their chicks which makes it super easy for you.

One major bonus about using a broody hen is that they don't need a heat lamp. The hen generates her own heat to keep the chicks warm and they’ll cuddle right up inside her to keep warm.

Con’s to hatching chicks with broody hens

One big downfall about hatching with a broody is that it’s in natures hands and they are not always broody when you need them to be! They can also be quite vicious when it comes to handling. We’re currently putting together a new blog post on how to break a broody hen, watch this space for more information.
Broody hens are also not always reliable. They can get bored of sitting and just get off the nest and not come back, leaving the eggs to go cold. This is not to be confused for the bird getting off the nest for food and water.

Hens can also be destructive. Once in a while you can come across a hen that doesn’t know what they are doing. We had an instance where the hen sat until all the chicks hatched and then she unfortunately killed them all as she was a first time mum and didn’t quite know what she was doing. However, this is a rare occasion, but it does sometimes happen.

Pros to hatching with an incubator

In an incubator you have full control of how many eggs you can start to incubate. You also have control of when they will hatch. Hens can go broody at all sorts of times, and aren’t necessarily aware of the convenience for you.

When hatching chicks in an incubator you get to watch the process more closely. Chicks that are hatched in an incubator can generally be handled more easily because they don’t have a mother hen chasing them around. Some people argue that incubator chicks are more friendly as they are used to you being around and rely on you for food and water.

Cons to hatching with an incubator

Clearly hatching with an incubator means that you actually need an incubator and depending on the spec these can be quite pricey. You are also in control of the chicks. It’s up to you to decide when a hatch is finished and if you are to help a struggling chick (I always do, just because I’m a softie and can’t leave them to die) and these decisions are not always easy to make.

If you hatch chicks from an incubator your situation will be exactly like if you’d purchased the chicks. They will need heat, water and food. Your chicks will need to be kept separate from the rest of your flock until they are old enough that they would not be picked on.

Which way is best?

There are pros and cons to both hatching methods, but it’s entirely up to you and your set up and what you want to deal with.

Eggs & Our Health

It’s that time of year when we’ve all pigged out at Christmas (and rightly so) but we’re feeling a little sluggish and ready to cleanse for the new year. There’s no better way to treat your body than to make the change to organic and free range produce.

Switching to free range eggs is a really simple and easy way to increase vitamins in your diet. More than half the protein of an egg is found in the yolk. Eggs are rich sources of selenium, Vitamin D, B6, B12 and minerals such as Zinc, Iron and Copper. Egg yolks contain more calories and fat than the whites. They are a source of fat soluble vitamins A, D, E and K and Lecithin - the compound that enables emulsification in recipes like hollandaise or mayonnaise. Eggs are regarded as a ‘complete’ source of protein as they contain all nine essential amino acids; the ones that we can’t synthesise in our bodies and must obtain from our diet.

One Medium egg contains:

84 Calories - 8.3g protein - 5.7g fat - 1.6g sat fat.

For years eggs were considered more of a health risk than a healthy food. This is because they were considered high in cholesterol. We now know that the cholesterol found in food has much less of an effect on our blood cholesterol than the amount of saturated fat we eat.

Eggs are rich in several nutrients that promote heart health such as betaine and choline. Eggs are a useful source of Vitamin D which helps protect bones, preventing osteoporosis and rickets. You should always shop wisely as the method of egg production can effect the vitamin D content. Eggs should be included as part of a varied and balanced diet. They are filling and when enjoyed for breakfast, may help with weight management as part of a weight loss programme, as the high protein content helps us to feel fuller for longer.

Higher Oak Farm

It’s a brand new year, and we thought we’d give you some more information about us and how we look after our livestock.

We are a family built and run farm. We bought the land back in 2013. Since then we’ve developed the land and now house over 200 chickens. We have a brick barn and a mobile home for me to live in as the agricultural worker on the farm.

This is me (and Juno). I graduated with a degree in fashion design and worked as a designer for 2 years before joining my dad full time on the farm. I’ve always loved animals and being outside in the fresh air, it seemed like a no-brainer when dad asked me to join full time.

Here at Higher Oak Farm, we dedicate our time to ensure that our hens and cockerels are well looked after, well fed and most importantly have a good life. One of the biggest issues with industrial farming of chickens for eggs or meat is that the methods used on the birds do not honour many of their natural habits or needs. For example, overcrowding the hens and de-beaking them to ensure they don’t inflict harm on one another.

As well as having plenty of space our hens are moved around to different runs and moved onto fresh pasture on a monthly basis, rotating the hens around and moving the coops allows the soil and grass to re-generate and gives the chickens fresh pasture to scratch in. Moving then hens is also the perfect opportunity for us to clean out the houses and re-sawdust the floor.

If you’ve read our blog previously, you’ll know that at the back end of last year, we planted our own Orchard and had a local bee-keeper come and put 5 hives up on the farm. We also seeded a wild flower meadow and are working on an area where people can drive onto the farm and collect eggs from a vending machine to collect eggs as and when they want too. This allows us to have as much time as possible to collect eggs, feed, clean and look after the hens.

If owning Chickens is something you’re thinking about for this year but you want some more information on what it actual entails, please contact us at kirk@higheroakfarm.co.uk and we’d be happy to help!

Eggs & Muscle Growth

We have a huge amount of local rugby players and even Sale Sharks players that buy our trays of 30 eggs weekly and we wondered why… This weeks blog is about the effect that eggs can have on muscle growth.

Muscle growth is a normal part of any fitness routine, and not only meant for bodybuilders and professional athletes. Whenever we do any form of exercise we gain muscle, how much muscle is gained is down to the intensity and frequency of the exercise.

The more muscle mass in your body, the more calories you burn, even when you’re not exercising! However, to build up your muscle mass efficiency, you must consume the correct nutrients. This is where you can introduce nutrient-dense foods such as eggs into your diet and this can have huge benefits.

When gaining muscle and strength we are breaking down our muscle fibres so they can regrow both bigger and stronger. Although this process of regrowth will happen naturally, the degree to which it can happen is dependant on us consuming the correct foods afterwards, particularly protein.

One main substance that your muscles need to regrow and repair is protein, which is why eggs are an ideal choice for a post-workout nutrition. Did you know that egg protein contains all nine essential amino acids?

Bird Flu

So yesterday there was news of an outbreak of bird flu at a farm in Suffolk. Unfortunately for the farmer, the 27,000 birds will need to be culled. This is such devastating news, as we know how long it takes to build up such a large flock. The birds were found to have the H5 strain of avian flu, this is a ‘low pathogenic avian flu’. Other bird keepers in the area should remain alert for any signs of disease. I’ve put together this blog post just to make people more aware of what bird flu is and what it looks like in both animals and humans.

What is bird flu?

“Bird flu” is the name given to several strains of virulent influenza that can be transmitted from birds to humans. The primary strains that are cause for concern are H1N1 (since 1997) and H7N9 (since 2013). There are two forms of avian influenza: low pathogenicity (LPAI) and high pathogenicity (HPAI).

What are the symptoms?

High temperature, nausea, cough; the same as flu. However, within days of initial symptoms appearing, victims can suffer potentially fatal complications, such as pneumonia or organ failure.

How do you catch it?

Generally through prolonged contact with an infected bird, dead or alive. Chickens, ducks, turkeys and geese can all be infected with the virus and not show signs of illness. You can't be infected through eating cooked poultry or poultry products.

Do I have bird flu?

If you have the symptoms of flu and you have visited an area affected by bird flu in the last two weeks, you’re advised to contact your GP. Your diagnosis will be based on your symptoms and the likelihood you have been exposed to an infected bird. This will then be tested via a chest X-ray, blood tests, nose and throat swabs.

What is the treatment?

As with regular flu: rest, plenty of fluids, paracetamol to bring down your temperature. The NHS has stockpiled antiviral medication in the event of a UK outbreak, which will reduce the severity of symptoms. Bird flu victims will generally be treated at home, or in isolation at a hospital.

How do I tell if my bird has bird flu?

The only way to confirm if your chickens have Avian Influenza is a laboratory test. However, there are a few signs that you should look out for:

• Blueness of the head area

• Reduction in their appetite

• Wet eyes

• Excessive flock huddling and ruffled feathers

• Fluid in the comb and wattles

• Decrease in egg production

• Coughing

• Legs bleeding underneath the skin

• Sudden death

• A general decrease in roaming and activity

If you notice any of these symptoms in your chickens then make sure the properly quarantine them immediately.

There are a few things that you can do to prevent bird flu

Restrict wild birds - The most effective measure you can take is to stop wild birds from coming into contact with your chickens. You could also add a roof to your pen as this would stop infected droppings from entering the pens, although the odds of that happening are very slim!

Keep things clean and tidy - Keep your feeders and water units clean and don’t let wild birds have access to these. Thoroughly clean any piece of equipment that comes into contact with your birds, you can you Virkon S.

Clean up any food spillages, so that you don’t attract wild birds. Clean and disinfect your coop weekly, again you can use Virkon S for this. Have dedicated clothing and footwear for handling your chickens. Ensure that you don’t wear these clothes for anything else, especially when visiting another flock.

Frequently asked questions about bird flu

Q: What happens if I eat an egg which was laid by a chicken with Bird Flu?

Chickens infected with highly pathogenic avian influenza don’t normally lay eggs. However if you did eat an egg laid by a chicken with bird flu, the World Health Organisation reports “Proper cooking inactivates the virus present inside the eggs”.

Q: Can I eat a chicken contaminated with Bird Flu?

If you cooked the infected chicken so its temperature rises above 70°Celsius and make sure no meat is raw or red then it should be safe to eat.

Q: Should I Start My First Flock Now?

Some people have said that they are cautious about getting chickens while there is the scare of bird flu. This is an overly-cautious step and if you want to get chickens and raise them you should! Just make sure to purchase your pullets from a reputable dealer and follow the safety steps outlined above and you should be fine.

Hopefully you’ll feel a bit more informed about what bird flu is and how you could potentially prevent it in your flock. If you’re concerned about bird flu in your flock, make sure that you speak to your vet for advice on what to do next!

How To Identify A Sick Chicken

It’s hard to detect a sick bird until it’s normally too late. Birds are notorious for masking the signs of sickness or injury. As a prey species, it’s survival of the fittest, the weak or sick looking birds make easy prey for a predator. The quicker you learn to identify a sick or injured bird the highest chance of survival the bird has.

First of all you need to learn the behaviours of the breed. The key is to look out for subtle changes or an absence in certain behaviours. Once you understand the behaviours of your flock it makes it so much quicker and easier to notice small changes.

Pay close attention to:

Appetite – Knowing how much food each bird is consuming is so much harder than you think! Instead, keep an eye on how involved the birds are when it comes to eating. Add in treats if you’re unsure. Mealworms are our go-to. We have live mealworms delivered once a week from ‘WigglyWigglers’. There must be something wrong with the bird if they aren’t interested in these treats.

Posture – Abnormalities in posture include: head tucked, neck twisted, hunched, upright, sitting on hocks, laying down, droopy wings, paralysis ect.

Socialising and interactions with other birds – How much time they are spending on their own and how they are treated by other flock members. Do they appear lethargic or depressed?

Size – Weight loss and stunted growth in chickens indicate that there may be a problem – something is impacting the birds’ ability to absorb nutrients to grow or maintain their weight.

Movement – How the bird looks when they are walking or running. Do they look off balance, stumble often are reluctant to walk for very long?

Respiratory effort – Does a bird look like it may be having trouble breathing? Sneezing, coughing, wheezing, voice changes, tail bobbing, gasping, or reduced exercise tolerance?

Changes in the chickens comb -

‘The Depressed Bird’ Look

The issue with chickens is that they are very good at masking and hiding their illness and pain. This means that once they appear with the typical ‘depressed bird’ look their condition is usually in the advanced stages.

Hopefully some of this information will help you identify when your birds are starting to look unwell and you can treat them accordingly!

How To Clip A Chickens Wing

Recently our 12 week old Hi-Oak Brown hens have just been put out into a larger run with a lot more space to mill around. It’s a delight to finally see them out and about in their runs, but they seem to keep hopping the fence. So I’ve looked into clipping their wings. There’s a lot of debate about whether or not the wings should be clipped, but we came to the conclusion that it’s for their own safety with our local fox visiting nightly, we want our birds to stay inside the fence and not out for the fox to feast on.

I’ve googled how to clip a chickens’ wing for the novice like myself. My dad’s owns and runs the farm, but as he was on holiday when we moved the hens, it was up to me to get them back in the runs and keep them there. I only clipped one wing as it puts the hen off-balance as soon as they try to fly. I found it unnecessary to clip both.

I found the image below really helpful when it came to what to cut and what not to cut. We’re hoping to get a video done soon to show you guys how to clip them properly and give you a bit more information on the birds themselves.

Detecting & Treating Frostbite In Your Flock

It’s that time of year again, the days are getting shorter and the nights longer and colder, here’s some advice for the winter on how to detect and treat frostbite in your flock.

How to detect frostbite

Frostbite is damaged body tissue from extremely cold temperatures. Cells become frozen, which damages the tissue and prevents blood flow to the area. Chickens conserve their body heat by restricting blood flow to their feet, combs and wattles making these specific areas susceptible to frostbite. If your bird has frostbite, you’ll notice a change in these areas, they will become pale or grey. Depending on how bad the frostbite is, you may also notice changes in their appetite or lack of, swelling and blisters as well as the tissue feeling cold or hard to touch.

How to treat Frostbite

Once you’ve detected frostbite on your chickens, ensure you move the affected bird to a warmer, dry location. Don’t massage the area to warm it up as this could damage the surrounding tissue. You need to warm the area up slowly. For example, if your chicken is developing frostbite on their feet start by submerging their feet in lukewarm water instead of hot water.

Keep the area as clean as possible to prevent infection. Using a veterinarian antiseptic spray like the ‘Curaseb’ Antiseptic spray (available on Amazon) and use this to clean the area.

A full recovery from frostbite can take between 4–6 weeks. You just need to keep an eye on the affected area and check for infection. If the area develops blisters, do not touch them as they are part of the healing process.

Keep the affected chicken in a dry area by adding a heater to the coop or assigning a specific recovery area.

If the area is large, then don’t hesitate to get some advice from your local poultry vet and follow their instructions.

How to prevent Frostbite

The easiest way to prevent frostbite is to ensure your chicken coop has proper ventilation. Ensure that the bedding is dry by only allowing them access to water outside of the coop, but ensure that this is not frozen and monitor how much water they are drinking to ensure that they stay hydrated. Have a look at our blog post on ‘preparing your coop for winter’ for some more helpful tips.

Preparing Your Coop For Winter

Ensuring your coop is ready for winter is vital for the health, happiness and production of your birds. Here’s a few tips on how to make your chicken coop ready for the cold winter months.

Light – Light is a vital part of helping your hens keep laying through the winter. Adding in artificial daylight extends the daytime for the hens and the laying time.

Insulation – Ensure that your coop should be properly insulated to reduce heat transfer or flow and helps moderate the temperature.

Frostbite – You must regularly check your birds with large combs for signs of frostbite.

Eliminate Drafts -Seal any holes and cracks that are large enough to let light inside the coop. Blocking these up ensure that the heat stays inside the coop.

Keep your birds well fed – Making sure your birds are well fed is vital. The digestion process will raise the core temperature of the chicken and this will improve their circulation.

Accessible Water – Chickens need constant access to water. You could insulate the water source, replace the water every day to avoid freezing, hang a lamp above the water or invest in a heated bucket.